![]() In practice, you quickly find that non-name offers often look like new batteries, but have usually been stored for too long and are therefore no longer completely full. While button cells of the same type all look the same at first glance, there are different offers in terms of quality. ![]() ![]() Thanks for the addition, Helmut! Where can I buy the button cells? But maybe the trick will help one or the other reader out of an emergency. A short circuit in a button cell can quickly lead to an explosion of the battery, which should be avoided at all costs. The trick is ok if you know what you are doing. And you should always only press the aluminum ball on the top of the button cell, since no contact with the other pole is possible on the top. It is important, however, that the ball does not slip towards the edge, otherwise there is a risk of a short circuit. To compensate for the missing height, you can make a small ball out of aluminum foil and insert this into the device with the flatter button cell. In terms of tension, there would be no problem. The only problem here is the lack of height, which prevents the flatter model from being used. It's the same if you need a CR2025 but only have a CR2016 on hand. Today I got a trick from my reader Helmut on how you can help yourself when a CR2032 is necessary, but you only have a CR2016 or a CR2025 available. So: 2x CR2016 ≠ CR2032 !!! The trick with the aluminum ball In short: the probability is very high that you will break the device with it. This is twice as high as the voltage that the device actually expects and one can assume that the calculator or the remote control - or whatever device it is - will be permanently damaged. The dimensions are then identical and it would fit into the corresponding device, but you would have connected two 3,0 volt batteries in series, resulting in a total voltage of 6,0 volts. I was recently asked whether you could use 2032x a CR2 button cell instead of a CR2016. However, both types cannot match the runtime of a disposable CR button cell, which can deliver almost three times as much energy as an ML button cell. Now which is the better choice? ML or LIR? In most cases, this is probably the ML button cell, since it has a higher energy density than the LIR variant and therefore “lasts” longer. The difference between these two types of button cell is not only in the chemical composition, but also in the nominal voltage and the charge: So before loading, please check the designation of the button cell! Update /XNUMX/XNUMX: Difference between ML and LIRĪ question that a reader asked me should still be answered: What is the difference between ML2032 and LIR2032 and what do these abbreviations stand for. Due to the built-in lithium, this is usually associated with flames, which can lead to a fire on flammable surfaces. If you try to charge the CR button cells, they can explode in the worst case. ML2032 or LIR2032) are rechargeable batteries. Only the models with "ML" and "LIR" in front (i.e. The result: The variant with “CR” at the front is always a disposable battery. Since I was asked if the CR2032 and CR2025/2016 are rechargeable, I did a little research in this direction. Read more: Button cell LR44 - comparison type, data and identical replacement.Read more: Flameless LED tea lights with timer function for autumn and winter.Read more: Buy watch batteries - the most popular models and manufacturers.
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